When Soave is born on a good, hillside vineyard that isn’t ridiculously overcropped; when the passions of the wine grower are noble and well-aimed; when the wine is produced from the noble Garganega grape alone, or with perhaps just a touch of the delicate and etheral “Trebbiano di Soave” that many identify as Verdicchio – then “Soave is truly excellent, and irresistible, too. Welcome to the world of Gaetano Tamellini and his bevy of exciting and delicious Soave. From his simple DOC Soave to his outstanding single vineyard offerings, “Anguane” and “Le Bine”, Tamellini’s wines provide pure drinking pleasure and proof that Soave is more than just a pleasant quaff. For years Gaetano Tamellini was content to grow grapes, which like nearly all of the countless Soave growers, good and bad, sold his production to the Soave Co-op. This massive cooperative monopolizes all but a handful of the DOC production, vinifying millions of bottles of juice, which it sells to negociants throughout the production zone. Is there any surprise then that so much of the Soave in the export market tastes alike – pleasant by quite innocuous? Convinced that his hillside vineyards deserved better and encouraged by the consistently fine offerings he had always bottled for home use, Tamellini took the great leap of faith. He joins the elite rank of only 15 growers in all of Soave who bottle their own individual estate bottled wines. This is especially mind-boggling when you consider that Soave is the largest white wine-producing DOC in Italy. Furnishing his cellar from scratch with the most up to date equipment, Tamellini began production with the very difficult 1998 vintage. With the assistance of Paolo Caciorgna, one of Italy’s greatest white wine makers, Gaetano and his brother Pio Francesco turned out formidable Soave offerings in what can be safely categorized as a less than great vintage. Even more exciting results followed in 1999, a plainly superior, more conducive vintage than its predecessor. Hence, a star was born. Even before the Tamellini Brothers’ debut vintage, importer Marc De Grazia knew a good thing when he saw it. Moreover, his counsel to have Paolo Caciorgna oversee each step of the vinification process and his own willingness to import single vineyard Soave, have paid off handsomely. From some 40 acres of vineyards Tamellini produces excellent Soave, Soave Superiore and two small individual single vineyard bottlings: “Anguane” and “Le Bine”. Each captures the elegance and blithe spirit of true Soave, in its own unique way. This is especially true of the Anguane vineyard, which the growers believe produces the most alluring and feminine of all Soave. Named after mythical fairies that are said to dance in the vineyard, the local cognoscenti say there is a certain feminine sensuality that pervades this vineyard, making it the most popular of vineyards among the workers. Surely, the wine produced from Anguane is nothing short of enticing.