La Berrière Muscadet Côtes de Grandlieu Sur Lie AOC 2023

The Goulaine family and the folks at Château La Grange fashion a truly classic Muscadet in their La Berrière Muscadet Côtes de Grandlieu Sur Lie, a dry, racy, and downright thirst quenching white wine that has been a four-time Wine Enthusiast “Best Buy.” The 2023 vintage is no exception – the wine’s brilliant crystalline hue and fresh floral and mineral-driven aromas had us at the first sniff. In the mouth, citrus and stone fruit flavors misted with the soft salty tang of the sea invigorates the palate. Dry, mineral-rich, and so easy to drink, the 2023 La Berrière Muscadet Côtes de Grandlieu Sur Lie is a wine that should never be confused for Muscat – the two wines bear no resemblance to one another, nor are they related. With the 2023 La Berrière Muscadet Côtes de Grandlieu Sur Lie, there’s no smoke or mirrors, butter or oak, and definitely no sweetness thanks to Melon de Bourgogne’s delicate fruit flavors and a propensity to reflect the distinctive sandy limestone-rich soil of the Loire mingled with the scent of the nearby sea. Although ready to drink now, this wine can age beautifully in the bottle for several years. For optimum enjoyment we suggest a moderate chill (38°-45º F) before consuming. Anticipated maturity: 2024-2026. Enjoy!

Renowned English wine writer Hugh Johnson has fondly referred to Muscadet as “Neptune’s Garden” in light of Muscadet’s heralded reputation for accompanying fish, shellfish, and all sorts of fruits from the nearby sea. Indeed, the climate, history, and sustenance of Muscadet appear inexorably married to maritime fare, and with it the fortunes of Muscadet producers. In France, when oysters are the topic of conversation or even a mere source of contemplation, Muscadet is an integral part of that conversation as well as the accompanying plate of the finest and freshest oysters. Accordingly, the 2023 La Berrière Muscadet Côtes de Grandlieu Sur Lie AOC and oysters strike an incomparable friendship, yet this Muscadet is more than an “oyster wine.” Crab, mussels, prawns, scallops, langoustines, and shrimp offer equally compelling accompaniments to this wine, but so do many other foods that have never seen the sight of the sea. Fried chicken, spicy chicken wings, Asian stir fries, and even corn tortillas provide tasty companions to the delicious 2023 La Berrière Muscadet Côtes de Grandlieu. This Muscadet’s bright, fresh flavors shine in the company of fried and spicy dishes, which are often hard to pair with other wines. Bon Appétit!

The venerable Château de la Grange produces La Berrière Muscadet Côtes de Grandlieu AOC from 123 acres of vineyards near Lac de Grand-Lieu, from which the appellation (AOC) draws its name. This historic property dates to the 15th century, but it was not until 1777 that the present owners, the Goulaine family, came into possession of this outstanding estate that draws warmth and depth of flavor from nearby Lac de Grand-Lieu. The lake’s special terroir provides the ideal growing conditions for Melon de Bourgogne, Muscadet’s premier grape variety.

Baudouin de Goulaine, an ecologist and cousin to the Marquis de Goulaine, took over the estate in 1981. He and his son Victor run the estate and have brought this historic property to its present height, garnering great acclaim for La Berrière’s Muscadet Côtes de Grandlieu Sur Lie, which has four times been named “Best Buy” by Wine Enthusiast. Top notch Muscadet that spends 7 months on its lees is La Berrière’s only calling card, so one needs to look no further than La Berrière’s 2023 Muscadet Côtes de Grandlieu Sur Lie (this month’s feature) to accompany the delights of Neptune’s Garden.

The pastoral appellation of Muscadet possesses the only classified vines in Brittany. This large appellation lies near the mouth of the Loire River, just to the south of the city of Nantes and is reputed to have been planted by Roman soldiers under an edict from the Roman Emperor Probus.

Muscadet is comprised of three distinct districts: Sèvre-et-Maine, which occupies the hills above the two small rivers (Sèvre and Maine) from which the appellation draws its name; Côtes de Grandlieu, which surrounds the Grand-Lieu lake and benefits greatly from the lake’s unique microclimate; and the diminutive Muscadet-Coteaux de la Loire. Two grapes, both white, have traditionally been associated with Muscadet: Gros Plant and Melon de Bourgogne. However, Melon de Bourgogne is a far superior grape to Gros Plant and is now the only grape variety allowed in Muscadet wines that bear a Muscadet appellation (AOC). Melon de Bourgogne was brought to Muscadet in the 17th century and was once a permitted variety in Burgundy, as its name implies.

Although not overly complex, the finest wines of Muscadet provide splendid accompaniments to seafood, especially oysters and other shellfish, and they can hold their own with many more famous and expensive white wines. This is especially true when Muscadet is kept on its lees (the leftover spent yeast from fermentation) for several weeks or even months (designated by the words sur lie on the label) to gather additional flavor and texture. Presently, the wine wares of Muscadet Côtes de Grandlieu and Muscadet Sèvre-et-Maine constitute some of the finest values in truly dry white wine.