Fattoria Montellori Moro 2004

A lush, hedonistic Super Tuscan, the 2004 Moro is a tribute to Marco Razzauti's talent and testimony to the bounty of the outstanding 2004 vintage throughout Italy. Ripe, round, and packed with flavor, the 2004 Moro is the finest rendition of this outstanding offering to date. It is filled with a heady perfume of violets, black cherry, cocoa, and more. And in the mouth Moro is all plush fruit, married to ripe tannins and the feel and texture of the finest Florentine leather. No ordinary Tuscan red, the 2004 Moro is more akin to fine Pomerol, the most accessible and charming of Bordeaux's red wines. Indeed, the 2004 Moro is seductive in its tantalizing fruit and forward charm, but it is by no means a light or frivolous wine. Furthermore, the 2004 Moro will continue to improve for several more years in bottle, if you can exercise enough restraint to keep a bottle around for that long. We recommend serving the 2004 Moro cool (59° F-65° F) straight from the bottle, or better still allow it an hour or more to breathe: it will unfold in the glass and delight the senses for as long as you can resist.

An exquisite Tuscan red such as the 2004 Montellori Moro provides the ideal complement to foods of similar style and sophistication. A myriad of meats and vegetables take on whole new dimension when paired with the 2004 Moro. Pheasant, stuffed with braised vegetables, porcini mushrooms and a hint of truffle, makes a memorable meal and a marriage that could last forever. However, poultry, fine cuts of beef and pork, even game, provide other worthy suitors. Classic Tuscan white bean dishes, served with crusty Italian bread and a few slices of hard cheese, offer other traditional accompaniments that will thrill tried and true carnivores as well as vegetarians. And for a simple mid week treat, you may want to open a bottle of the 2004 Moro to accompany a grilled chicken breast, served with grilled onions and peppers, melted Havarti cheese, and basil aioli on toasted focaccia. Parmigiano Reggiano, Pecorino Romano, and other hard cheeses in the company of this fine Super Tuscan offer uncomplicated choices, too, especially as the finale to a splendid meal. But whether it is simple elegance or sophisticated fare you seek, you are sure to find a friend in the 2004 Moro. Buon Appetito!

A couple of years ago, we discovered Fattoria Montellori and the estate's enthusiastic, serious-minded proprietor Alessandro Nieri. Not long afterwards, we met Dr. Marco Razzauti, Montellori's exuberant 30 year old viticulturist and oenologist, and it quickly became clear to us just how committed this estate is to making world class Chianti and Super Tuscan reds. What is happening at Montellori is nothing short of enthralling. And instead of smoke and mirrors leading the way, as is sometimes the case in the world of wine, it is a solemn revitalization of the estate's vineyards and a complete dedication to natural, sustainable agronomy that has pushed the quality quotient at Montellori to ever higher levels. This estate's total makeover is due to the vast improvements in viticultural practices that Dr. Razzauti instituted several years ago, and Montellori's decision to limit production. Needless to say, the results speak volumes, loudly and clearly. Fattoria Montellori is located off the beaten track, away from the glitz and glamour of the well-worn wine road that winds its way from Florence to Siena. Instead, Montellori is tucked away in the Montalbano zone of Chianti to the west of Florence, near the stately Tuscan town of San Miniato. San Miniato is renowned for its wealth of beautifully preserved Romanesque and Renaissance churches, which thrust their many spires skyward. This pretty town is equally celebrated for its savory truffles and heavenly wines. The latter treasures constitute some of Tuscany's most hedonistic pleasures. Thanks to the foresight of Alessandro Nieri's father Giuseppe, Fattoria Montellori owns six distinct vineyards, all of which possess a unique soil, microclimate, exposure, and altitude. Red wine is king at Montellori, as it is throughout Tuscany. Not surprisingly, Chianti is the estate's most important wine, at least in terms of production. And what a Chianti it is! However, in recent years, Montellori has fashioned three outstanding Super Tuscan offerings: Moro, Dicatum, and Salamartano. Moro is the single vineyard offering that is the most accessible and seductive of the three, particularly in its youth. Moro is a blend of primarily Sangiovese to which small amounts of Cabernet Sauvignon and Malvasia Nera are added. Meanwhile, Dicatum is the most traditional of this estate's offerings. It is 100% Sangiovese from the hillside vineyard Cerreto Guidi, the last vineyard that Giuseppe Nieri personally planted. Salamartano on the other hand is a classic Bordeaux blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot that has been aged in small barriques. In addition, Alessandro Nieri and Marco Razzauti craft several excellent white wines, including Mandorlo, an artful non-traditional blend of Chardonnay, Viognier, Marsanne, Roussanne, and Clairette.