Domaine Bunan Moulin des Costes Bandol Rouge 2020

Born on the terraced hillsides of the Bunan brothers’ original vineyard above Cadières d’Azur, Domaine Bunan’s 2020 Moulin des Costes Bandol Rouge (Gold Medal – Concours Général Agricole Paris; Gold Medal – Millésime Bio) captures all of the warmth and savor of Provence. A blend of 70% Mourvèdre, 20% Cinsault, and 10% Syrah, Bunan’s 2020 Moulin des Costes Bandol is radiant and intense in all respects. It offers a deep ruby and purple robe and flamboyant blackberry and cherry fruit artfully imbued with violet, fennel and savory wild Mediterranean herb scents and flavors. In the mouth, the 2020 Domaine Bunan Moulin des Costes Bandol smolders with rich berry fruit, exotic spices, wild herbs, and a hint of wood smoke – all carried on rich ripe tannins. Although still in its youth with miles to go, this ripe, well-structured Bandol comports itself beautifully. For optimal enjoyment, we suggest affording the strapping 2020 Domaine Bunan Moulin des Costes Bandol at least 30 minutes of aeration before serving it at cool room temperature (58°-62° F). In addition, laying away several bottles of this splendid Bandol will pay additional dividends for up to a decade. Anticipated maturity: 2024-2030. Enjoy!

Domaine Bunan’s 2020 Moulin des Costes is a full-bodied wine capable of warding off the chill of night. It is also a wine with a propensity to accompany traditional Provencal meals as well as the delights of a creative contemporary kitchen all year round. Roast or smoked duck, grilled lamb, and the rich aubergine (eggplant) and cheese dishes of Provence provide outstanding accompaniments to Domaine Bunan’s 2020 Moulin des Costes Bandol. Lamb shanks with black olives and slow cooked rack of lamb with a red wine reduction pair especially well with this Bandol. Zucchini Parmesan, Stuffed Zucchini Flowers, cheese pies, and spicy penne pasta dishes with eggplant and hot Italian sausages in a thick tomato sauce also rate very high on our list of favorite accompaniments to Domaine Bunan’s delicious 2020 Moulin des Costes red Bandol. Goat cheeses, another Provencal specialty, provide simple to prepare, yet equally gratifying, partners to Domaine Bunan’s 2020 Bandol. Bon Appétit!

The tiny Bandol estate of Domaine Bunan attracted our attention more than two decades ago with a succession of delicious red Bandol wines. Unfortunately, the domaine’s tiny production and tremendous local demand limited the wine’s availability for export. However, as a longtime admirer and after an extended visit with a large tasting panel to Bunan’s picturesque Moulin des Costes, whose terraced vineyards serviced the lords of nearby Chateau Le Castellet, limited amounts of Domaine Bunan’s exquisite red Moulin des Costes Bandol became available to us. Yes, good things often come to those who are persistent and willing to make the pilgrimage. This time we have secured enough of Domaine Bunan’s 2020 Moulin des Costes Bandol Rouge (this month’s feature and the property’s most revered wine) to offer the estate’s most prized Bandol to our members. Moreover, the Moulin des Costes Bandol Rouge from all certified organic estate-grown grapes is unequivocally the most complex, hedonistic red Bandol wine we have tasted. Domaine Bunan also fashions some of Provence’s finest, most flavorful Rosés.

Brothers Paul and Pierre Bunan are men steeped in the rich wine-growing tradition of southern France and heirs to a tradition of authentic winemaking that they learned from their father and grandfather. In 1961, Paul and Pierre fell in love with Moulin des Costes and its terraced marl and sandstone hills above La Cadière d’Azur in the Bandol appellation, an exceptional and widely respected commune known for its outstanding red and rosé wines. Hence, the birth of Domaine Bunan.

Today, Domaine Bunan is a true family affair with all hands on deck. Paul’s son Laurent took over the direction of Moulin des Costes several years ago after completing his oenology and winemaking studies in California. Laurent presently directs export and development for Domaine Bunan. Laurent’s sister Françoise also works at the winery as head of communications, while Pierre’s daughter lends her talents to marketing and design. Younger brother Philippe has also joined the family as an agricultural engineer. With respect for the land and the family’s tradition of fashioning only authentic Bandol wines, the warm and welcoming Bunan family pride themselves on producing exceptional Bandol wines. We can also attest to never having had a finer meal in Provence than one we enjoyed with the Bunans at Moulin des Costes.

Despite the preeminence of its wines, Bandol and its highly acclaimed wines remain little known in the United States. Located along a breathtakingly beautiful stretch of Provencal coastline to the east of Marseille and the picturesque seaside town of Cassis, Bandol fashions some of the greatest red and rosé wines in all France from a variety of calcareous soils. From terraced hillsides in eight small communes around the seaside village of Bandol, the persnickety Mourvèdre grape variety not only thrives, it reigns supreme. In Bandol, under the warm Mediterranean sun, Mourvèdre ripens fully and consistently to form the backbone, heart, and very soul of all red and rosé Bandol wines. Nowhere else in France does Mourvèdre command such attention. The late ripening Mourvèdre grape is the major varietal and essential ingredient in all of Bandol’s magical red and rosé wines, as Mourvèdre must account for at least 50% of any red or rosé wine made in Bandol. However, many producers can and will use more Mourvèdre in their Bandol with some Bandol offerings topping out at 95% Mourvèdre. Grenache, Cinsault and Syrah provide strong supporting roles in Bandol, as they serve to tame Mourvèvdre’s sometimes rambunctious personality, which includes an alluring array of deep black and red fruit aromas, spice and wild herb components along with a firm tannic backbone that guarantees longevity.

Although full-bodied red and rosé wines dominate Bandol’s production, small quantities of fine white wines from indigenous grape varieties such as Clairette, Bourboulenc and Ugni Blanc also emanate from Bandol. Typically, the region’s white grape varieties grow on hillsides with north facing slopes. They capture the freshness of the nearby sea and offer complex, amplifying aromas and flavors reminiscent of spring flowers, citrus, and an array of orchard fruits.