Interesting Wine Info Archives - Page 4 of 22 - Wine Blog from The International Wine of the Month Club

Mencia: Spain’s Ancient and Illustrious Red Varietal

June 16, 2022 by Don Lahey

Spain has long been associated with great red wines, particularly the red wines of Rioja and Ribera del Duero from the iconic Tempranillo varietal, so much that other equally exciting indigenous varietals such as Garnacha, Prieto Picudo and most especially Mencia have had to take a back seat or, worse, have been ignored until the last several years.

Mencia is a premium red Spanish grape varietal found primarily in the Bierzo, Ribeira Sacra, and Valdeorras appellations of northern Spain. Although the Mencia varietal was once considered by enologists to be the direct ancestor and precursor of Cabernet Franc, recent DNA testing has shown that this is not the case. Mencia and Cabernet Franc share some common characteristics, but not the same ancestry. It is now widely believed that Mencia and Portugal’s Jaen de Dão (Jaen for short) grape variety are one and the same, yet not everyone agrees. What we do know, however, is that Mencia is an ancient varietal that has been around for millennia. Bierzo’s original plantings of Mencia likely date to the earliest Roman settlers in Bierzo, who cultivated the varietal two thousand years ago in what remains one of Europe’s most isolated wine regions. It is the grape’s isolation and not any inferior quality that has caused it to be overlooked outside its ancestral home.

Bierzo, Ribeira Sacra, and Valdeorras are remote areas, the latter two in Galicia, Spain’s cool, windswept province astride the Atlantic. Certainly, it is the very isolation of the region that has allowed Mencia to survive and even thrive. Moreover, the average age of the hillside vines in these appellations can be quite old, which lends itself to the production of high quality wines. Consequently, the wonderfully fruity, spicy, and wholly intriguing Mencia varietal has recently been discovered, or rather re-discovered, by modern legions of wine drinkers. They are no doubt intrigued by this unique viticultural entity we call Mencia, whose many attributes are accentuated by organic farming, low vineyard yields, and modern winemaking techniques practiced by its finest purveyors whose emphasis is on quality rather than quantity. Since the 1990s Mencia has steadily grown in popularity to the point where there are now more than 20,000 acres of Mencia vines being cultivated in Spain. Altos de Losada, Peza do Rei, and Casal Novo are three consistent producers of Mencia whose wines are always worth seeking out.

Carmenère: Chile’s Emblematic Wine and the World’s Best Red Wine Value

May 19, 2022 by Don Lahey

Carmenère is Chile’s emblematic grape variety, yet it rarely receives the recognition it deserves. Of all South American wines, Carmenère clearly stands out as the most distinctive and enjoyable, especially when consumed in the first five years of life, which is when the vast majority of all wines are consumed. Even more impressive, well-made Carmenères age gracefully to perfection for up to a decade or more in bottle. Increasingly, critics and writers sing the praises of Carmenère, especially from top producers such as Casa Silva, Casas del Bosque, Carmen, and Errazuriz, and everytime I serve a Carmenère at a tasting or share it with friends, it’s a hit with red wine drinkers, both young and old. When asked why they don’t drink more Carmenère, the usual retorts still sound something like these: “I didn’t know what it was” or “I never had one before, so I was afraid to try it.” Adam should have exercised a bit more caution when handed the apple, but when it comes to wine, let’s be a little more adventuresome, even audacious!

So why hasn’t Carmenère taken the wine world by storm? For one, Carmenère is close to being the missing link of Bordeaux varietals, and it has only been since the 1980’s that DNA testing ascertained that Chile’s distinctive red grape is indeed Carmenère. Carmenère’s origins go back many centuries, and it is still one of the six legal red Bordeaux grape varietals for Classified Bordeaux. Carmenère, like Malbec, figured prominently in Bordeaux until the advent of phylloxera in the 19^th century. However, post phylloxera, the prolific, earlier ripening Merlot became Bordeaux’s dominant varietal followed by Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc. Brought to Chile in the 19^th century before the dreaded vine disease, phylloxera, Carmenère was mistaken for a clone of Merlot until the 1980s. This surely accounts for Carmenère languishing for so long in relative obscurity, though it’s hard to believe that one of Bordeaux’s six legal red grape varietals could be misidentified for so long, but then the truth is nearly always stranger than fiction. Political and economic instability in Chile until the 1990’s is another reason Carmenère is a relative late comer to our shores. Lastly, some of the first Carmenère wines sent to the US were under-ripe and not at all indicative of what this premium grape is capable of being.

So, what does Carmenère have going for it? Plenty! Let’s start with Carmenère’s deep purple color, followed by a hedonistic aroma: savory red and black fruit flavors, deft touches of bell pepper, black pepper, dark chocolate, coffee and spice. But best of all, Carmenère’s tannins are smoother than those of Cabernet and its other Bordeaux compatriots. Most of all, people enjoy it, especially after it’s had a few minutes to breathe. The only caveat with Carmenère is this: never judge a Carmenère on first sip. Any good Carmenère needs at least a few minutes of aeration to undergo metamorphosis and blossom in the glass. Yet, one doesn’t have to wait years to enjoy this varietal. Just allow Carmenère a little time in the glass to collect itself, and enjoy!

Cahors, Malbec, and a Return to Glory

March 15, 2022 by Don Lahey

Cahors was once the world’s most sought after wine, and Malbec the source of Cahors’ rise to fame and legendary reputation. Malbec is a premier red grape variety indigenous to southwest France. Reputed to have originated in Cahors, Malbec has since Roman times played the starring role in the deeply colored wines from Cahors, a small wine region above the river Lot whose wine earned the name, the “Black Wine” of France, no doubt on account of the wine’s impenetrable color and robust flavor. Cahors and the mighty Malbec varietal graced the tables of medieval kings and queens and was found in palaces around the world. Until the phylloxera epidemic ravaged the vineyards of Cahors in the late 19^th century, as it did throughout Europe, Cahors was for centuries a wine of legend and lore.

Bordeaux also claims Malbec as an original son where it remains one of the original legal red wine grapes of red Bordeaux along with Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Carmenère, Merlot and Petit Verdot. In Bordeaux, Malbec is often referred to as Cot or Pressac. While Malbec rarely flies on its own any longer in Bordeaux with very few 100% varietal bottlings, Malbec still plays a supporting role in Bordeaux, where it adds color and body to many Bordeaux red wines.

In Cahors, Malbec still reigns supreme, but it is only since the last quarter of the 20^th century that wines of Cahors have begun to reclaim their former place among the world’s finest wines. By law Cahors must contain a minimum of 70% Malbec, though the finest versions are often 90%. Tannat and Merlot are the appellation’s other legal grape varieties. Much of Cahors’ resurgence is due the tremendous investment and revitalization of vineyards, which have once again climbed back up the steep terraces above the river Lot. Thanks to the luxury brand Cartier, the erudite Georges Vigouroux, and many others, Cahors is returning to its former glory. Although not as rustic nor deeply colored as in days of yore, contemporary Cahors retains great color and robust flavor plus the added finesse of the finest red Bordeaux. In the future, Cahors may again be more synonymous with Malbec than neighboring Bordeaux or Argentina, where the latter now cultivates 70% of the world’s Malbec. But there is no need to wait to enjoy the truly fine wines of Cahors. They are again here and now.

Bolgheri: Home to Italy’s Most Illustrious Wines

February 15, 2022 by Don Lahey

Bolgheri has emerged as Tuscany’s premier DOC, and its red wines known as Super Tuscans are universally lauded and ranked among the planet’s finest. Wines such as Tenuta San Guido’s Sassicaia and Ornellaia’s Bolgheri Superiore are world-renowned, consistently receive great critical acclaim, and fetch prices on par with the finest classified Bordeaux. And these highly lauded icons are just the tip of the proverbial iceberg as Bolgheri is a wealth of exceptional wines, many of which can still be purchased for less than a king’s ransom.

Located in southern Tuscany beside the cobalt blue Tyrrhenian Sea, Bolgheri has for centuries cultivated Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, and other French varietals along with Sangiovese, Tuscany’s premier indigenous grape variety. Yet, on account of its reliance on Cabernet Sauvignon and other non-autochthonous grape varieties, Bolgheri only attained DOC status for red wine in 1994, making it one of Tuscany’s youngest appellations.

Red wine serves as Bolgheri’s ambassador to the world, accounting for much of the region’s international acclaim. Bolgheri DOC regulations stipulate that Bolgheri Rosso can only be made from Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Sangiovese, and Syrah with at least 50% of the blend consisting of Bordeaux varietals (Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Merlot). Small amounts of Petit Verdot, another Bordeaux varietal, may also find its way into some Bolgheri Rossos, but in reality, most of Bolgheri’s Super Tuscans rely heavily on Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Merlot with increasingly less Sangiovese and Syrah appearing in the finest examples.

Châteauneuf-du-Pape: France’s First and Greatest Appellation

December 15, 2021 by Don Lahey

Châteauneuf-du-Pape sits astride the swift-moving Rhône River in the sun-drenched heart of Provence, known as the Vaucluse. Blessed with a dry Mediterranean climate ideal for the cultivation of vines and the production of wine, this historic picturesque wine region fashions a vast array of the world’s greatest red wines, thanks in large part to the proliferation of old-vine Grenache.

Châteauneuf-du-Pape championed France’s Appellation Control and was the first wine region in the world to garner Appellation d’Origine Controlée (AOC) status in 1936. Châteauneuf-du-Pape became the model for the entire French system of Appellation Control and nearly all other subsequent attempts to guarantee the authenticity of wine and improve the wine of individual wine regions worldwide. Quality and integrity have long been the hallmarks of Châteauneuf-du-Pape, which led Robert Parker, Jr. and other wine critics to dub Châteauneuf-du-Pape France’s greatest appellation.

Great wine almost always begins with healthy old vines, and Châteauneuf-du-Pape possesses some of the oldest vines in France. The average age of the vines in Châteauneuf-du-Pape is in excess of 40 years, by far the oldest of any major appellation in France, and many of the appellation’s vines have more than 100 years of age.

In addition, the entire production of Châteauneuf-du-Pape is hand harvested. Moreover, there is the region’s fabulous terroir – large, flat stones known as galets roulés that mingle with decomposed gravel. These remnants of Alpine glaciers, which once covered southern France, form Châteauneuf-du-Pape’s glacial till. This sacred till provides excellent drainage and imparts subtle nuances of flavor to the appellation’s outstanding wines. However, many consumers are surprised that both red and white wines emanate from Chateauneuf-du-Pape, and that red Châteauneuf-du-Pape may contain all of the appellation’s thirteen legal grape varieties.

Grenache, Syrah, Mourvèdre, Cinsault, Muscardin, Cournoise, Clairette, Bourboulenc, Picpoul, Roussanne, Terret Noir, Picardan, and Vaccarese are all legal grape varieties for Châteauneuf-du-Pape (Domaine du Vieux Lazaret among others actually contain all thirteen varieties), and a case can be made that there are really fourteen legal grape varieties in Châteauneuf-du-Pape, as Grenache comes in both red and white varieties. White Châteauneuf-du-Papes has gained in poularity in recent years, but red wine still reigns supreme in Châteauneuf-du-Pape, both in terms of quality and quantity.

Hundreds of proprietors fashion red Châteauneuf-du-Pape from the appellation’s more than 8,000 acres, much of it world class. Some of the most consistent producers of top-notch Châteauneuf-du-Pape include Château Beaucastel, Domaine du Vieux Lazaret, Guigal, and Domaine du Grand Tinel to name just a few.

Stellenbosch: South Africa’s Crown Jewel

November 15, 2021 by Don Lahey

South Africa has had a thriving wine industry since the 17^th century, but only now is the rest of the world taking notice. Quality and innovation push the envelope and values abounds. And nowhere in South Africa is their more to delight wine lovers than in the much heralded Winelands of Stellenbosch.

Located on the Western Cape less than an hour north of Cape Town, the picture post card town of Stellenbosch and the surrounding mountains form a dramatic backdrop for what has justly been heralded as the most beautiful wine country in the world. Although some may try to refute that claim and promote the various picturesque merits of other world renowned wine regions, what is not in question is the integral role Stellenbosch has played for more than three centuries in the formation of South African wine. Yes, the South African wine industry is that old; it dates back to the second half of the 17^th century. Not only is Stellenbosch South Africa’s oldest and most important wine producing region, it is the finest region for red and white wines on the African continent. It is South Africa’s Napa, Sonoma, and Santa Barbara counties and much more. Stellenbosch contains a myriad of microclimates, which allows for the cultivation of a wide array of grape varieties. Consequently, Stellenbosch is responsible for high quality red and white wines from a host of varietals that include Cabernet Sauvignon, Shiraz, Chardonnay, Chenin Blanc, Pinot Noir, Sauvignon Blanc, Semillon, Viognier, and of course South Africa’s unique varietal Pinotage, a cross between Pinot Noir and Cinsault. From wineries in Stellenbosch old and new flow an enormous variety of wines that are world class and wholly unique in character. It is time to discover the unique, incredibly flavorful wines of Stellenbosch – South Africa’s crown jewel and the world’s most beautiful wine land.

Bordeaux’s Best Kept Secret: Lalande-de-Pomerol

October 15, 2021 by Don Lahey

French Wine Link Bordeaux, meaning beside the waters, is the world’s largest fine wine producing region, encompassing nearly 300,000 acres, 60 individual appellations, and more than 7,300 châteaux. Appellations such as Margaux, Pauillac, St. Émilion, and Pomerol are legendary, as are scores of collectible, age worthy wines that flow from the tiny, lesser known appellation of Lalande-de-Pomerol, which has somehow remained Bordeaux’s best kept secret despite a spate of exceptional vintages and a bevy of châteaux with meticulously tended vines.

Lalande-de-Pomerol is a picturesque satellite commune of Pomerol of approximately 2,500 acres of vines that sits just to the north of Pomerol and the sprawling appellation of Saint-Émilion. Lalande-de-Pomerol is comprised of two main villages, Néac and Lalande-de-Pomerol, both of which produce very good red wines. However, while the village of Lalande-de-Pomerol lends its name to the entire appellation and was an important stop on Europe’s most celebrated pilgrimage route to Santiago de Compostella, complete with a 12^th century stone church constructed by the Knights of Saint John and a hospital, it is Néac that produces the appellation’s finest wines from Merlot and Cabernet Franc vines grown on a mixture of gravel and clay soils that extend from the Pomerol plateau. Small amounts of Cabernet Sauvignon make their appearance as well. By appellation regulation only red wine can be produced in Lalande-de-Pomerol, and what beautiful red wines they are. Ripe, plump, and silky smooth, the finest wines of Lalande-de-Pomerol drink well young, and yet often age gracefully to perfection for 20 years or more.

Lalande-de-Pomerol châteaux that consistently fashion outstanding wine include Château des Annereaux, Château Tournefeuille, and Château Siaurac, to name a few.

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